The reverse of a question I asked on here a while ago.
Steam Deck
OG steam machines were the shit, but way ahead of their time. If it had come out with proton already, then it would have dominated. But it’s wonderful that the UX had laid ground work for the steam deck
It’d be interesting to see if you could install the Steamdeck’s OS on a Steam Machine.
In Vavles defense, they proclaimed TF2 to be a “Hat Simulator” and I suppose they delivered on the advertised product…
The game Portal genuinely lived up to the slogan “now you’re thinking with portals.” Soon after I started playing I’d be walking around in real life and thinking “if I put portals there and there, I could get from here to that building rooftop there and on to over there…”
I still regularly replay those games.
Head-On CAN be appied directly to the forehead! Which was it’s only claim.
One of the only brands I would ever promote, Darn Tough socks.
Wear em out, ship them back, order a free pair. It’s that easy and they are the most comfortable, durable socks I have ever worn. Won’t ever buy another brand.
I’ve worn mine long and hard and haven’t gotten to test out the warranty yet, the first pair I bought is probably closing in on a decade and nearly indistinguishable from pairs that are several years newer. Even if they don’t honor their warranty for some reason I feel like I’ve gotten my money’s worth and then some.
I want to point out here, in Australia there is a brand of socks called Darn Tough that is sold at Kmart, Target and BigW, it is NOT THE SAME Darn Tough brand you see raved online. It’s a completely different sock brand thats been around for about 20 years in Australia and just happens to have the same name. They are not great socks, very thick but don’t last long.
Bought 2 pairs of their normal socks (everyday/sport socks) because they advertised to keep your feet cool during the day. I decided to test them out before I bought a bunch as workout socks.
1 was completely ripped on the sides by literally the 3rd wear (2nd week I had them), only walking around the office a bit.
The other lasted 8 wears before it got a hole on the balls of my feet and was almost worn through on the sides (about 6 weeks), still not one workout done with then
By very far the worst socks I have ever owned. I didn’t get a chance to try their warranty because I moved out of the US, but hot damn I will always recommend against their thin socks, only go for the large tube/hiking/warm socks.
Crazy. I have hiked hundreds of miles in the thin hiking socks, and while they weren’t nearly as durable as the midweights, they still outperformed every other sock I have tried. Smartwool, rei, carhartt, typical cotton socks etc. I guess as with most things, YMMV
Well, that sucks that your experience was poor, especially at their price point. I would be a bit frustrated with the brand as well.
Bear in mind they’re in the EU and don’t need a receipt https://darntough.eu/pages/our-unconditional-lifetime-guarantee
Timex: Takes a licking and keeps on ticking.
I licked my watch when I was a kid and it kept on ticking.
Wood glue, no particular brand recommendations, is one of the pew products I trust to do exactly what it claims to - glue wood.
Titebond 3. It’s a pretty easy choice; it has one of, if not the highest strengths of wood glues on the market, and it’s water resistant. If you want the wood to break before the glue does, that’s the stuff you want.
That is usually what I go with, because I normally only keep one bottle of wood glue around and it covers pretty much any use case I could ever have for wood glue being waterproof, safe for indirect food contact, etc.
But honestly, for general gluing furniture together and such, even the cheapest no-name brands of wood glue have always done just fine. Pretty much any wood glue out there is stronger than any wood you’re likely getting the be gluing (inb4 some carpentry nerd chimes in with some rare wood that only grows in New Zealand or something that is stronger than steel or something)
Wood glues like Titebond are PVA-based glues. So is Elmer’s white school glue, which is also very good at bonding wood. Wood glues are yellow either because of added resins that make it tackier when wet so clamped boards don’t slide around as easy before the glue dries, so that the glue dries to a harder, more rock-like consistency rather than staying slightly flexible, or because wood is kind of yellow so they wanted it to look like wood, I’ve heard all three and I’m not sure which is true. Titebond does sell a brown wood glue so that it blends into darker woods like walnut and ebony though.
I’ve seen plenty of bonds on furniture fail, rather than the wood. It seems most typical on things that are a dowelled construction rather than a mortise and tenon joint. I’ve seen it most often with chairs, since they’re under a lot of stresses. Maybe I’m in a uniquely bad environment that’s harsh on wood glue; I don’t know.
Yeah. If it fails it’s the wood around the glued joint, not the joint iself.
A face grain to face grain joint will usually fail at least partially along the growth rings in the board(s) rather than at the glue joint, yes. But an end grain to end grain joint (which are rarely made for practical reasons) will typically fail at the glue joint.
Wood is kind of a composite material; it’s cellulose fibers bound together with a polymer called lignin. PVA wood glue is stronger than lignin but not as strong as the cellulose fibers, so a broken face-to-face joint will break along the weakest, the lignin.
If you edge glue a panel together for say a table top, gluing boards edge-to-edge, that board will be at least as strong as if it was one wide board; it will take at least as much force as a single board to break.
But, if you glue two long boards end to end, it won’t be as strong as a single continuous board of the same overall length. It will fail at and along the glue joint, maybe pulling a couple splinters out of one board. Which is why we basically never do that; if a board has to be spliced it’s common to add a doubler so there are fibers crossing the joint line.
But yes PVA glue like Titebond is amazingly good at bonding wood.
I wonder if there is any bad wood glue out there. I use it quite a bit and I don’t think i ever used the same brand twice.
For some reason I have a thought in my head that I don’t like Elmer’s wood glue. I don’t know why, I don’t remember it ever letting me down.
White Elmer’s glue is pretty much the same formula as their “washable” school glue. It bonds wood quite strongly but it tends to be slimier than wood glue so when you go to clamp the boards together they tend to slip around out of orientation. It’s not as fun to work with as yellow carpenter’s glues which tend to be tackier so the boards don’t slip around as much.
