I’ve never been able to get a clean first layer with this machine. I have given it a beacon probe and it just made it much faster to get the same problem to happen again. Where am I going wrong?
0.2mm flatness is very flat for a 3D Printer bed, I don’t even know if I achieved that with the Nylock mod on my old Prusa. This simply looks like a bed adhesion problem, clean your bed well with dish soap and water and then rinse well and make sure you don’t toch the surface. Check the first layer height and bed temp as well.
I noticed something while printing. it doesnt have a bed mesh loaded when it prints. it saves the last mesh, but doesnt load it. why?
I think that was a change made a few years ago by the klipper devs. You’ll need to load the bed mesh explicitly in your print start macro before printing
should I have it remesh each time, save, then load the mesh at the start of each print or should I just have it recall a saved mesh?
Your gantry is not in plane. For the rear right corner, you need to perform the following. I suggest you get on the Voron Discord and head to the trident building channel for additional help.
Also what are you doing for beacon probe proximity or contact?
I feel you OP. I have a Hypercube Evo that I can’t for the life of me get a leveled bed with. I’ve swapped linear rails with MGN, switched to multiple probes including a beacon that I still need to install but probably won’t help seeing this post.
I think your frame isn’t straight, there’s twist somewhere that combined with an offset from probe to nozzle means it’s impossible to remove with probing as the offset in Z between nozzle and probe changes over X and/or Y. That’s the only thing I can think of at this point.
My guess would be from one side of the x-axis to the other, because then on one side the nozzle to probe offset would be less in Z then on the other. But it could also be anywhere else. Can you check if your frame is square?
You have a lot of possible options here.
- Your bed is ok, mine is 0.6 variation (sad I know)
- dish soap with no additives, rinse and dry it correctly before installing it back
- Verify that it’s doing this in the good order :
- Pre-heat bed
- Home XYZ
- Bed leveling
- Re home Z
- Bed Mesh
- Start print
If everything is ok, as someone else said, it’s maybe a X twist -> https://docs.vorondesign.com/community/troubleshooting/bryansj/twisted_x_extrusion_diagnostics.html
I have reworked the start_print gcode macro to incorporate a heat soak before scanning for a mesh. While its running that 20 minute soak, I notice that the temperature reading on the beacon coil is actual dropping while everything else is increasing during the soak. Is just above the bed, in the center, doors closed, and its readings are getting steadily lower. What could possibly cause that?
EDIT: Here’s where I ended up with my printer.cfg file for my 300 mm^3 voron trident. Do you see anything suspicious? https://pastebin.com/AxxEypK4
Heat soak should not change what you have here. During the heat soak, machine expands a little. You will get a more usefull Z / mesh when the machine gets to equilibrium.
If you still have problems after that, it’s probably a X twisted, see the linked document above. Unfortunately I do not have much time to dig into your configs.
I don’t have any experience with beacon. I use Tap or Klicky. With a twisted X, as tap use the nozzle, it should work even with a twisted X
