TechAdmin
That is normal https port, some websites may reference it directly while others skip it, it is fine. You can edit permissions on a per site basis to always ask, block, or allow location access by clicking on the lock icon > Connection (secure/unsecured) > More Information, then change to Permissions tab and set it how you want.
If tired of being prompted about location on all sites you can go into Settings > Privacy & Security, scroll to Permissions, click Settings next to Location, click ‘Block new requests’ and save changes. Per site allow/block/ask can still be configured.
My first zigbee device was Sylvania (73685) rgbw led strip. On it’s own it worked fine but once I started trying to add sengled zigbee bulbs I kept having problems with pairing the bulbs or keeping them connected. Zigbee uses 2.4ghz so I thought maybe interference so lowered power output on wifi AP 2.4ghz band & even turned it off for testing but didn’t help. I think I read somewhere that sylvanias caused that problem. I unplugged sylvania led strip, reset & rejoined everything else and had zero problems. Tried to add the sylvania back in and disconnect problems came back after awhile. It was past the return period so now I keep it unjoined and plugged into a zigbee smart outlet. I sometimes have to remove power from it to join new devices or when I restart zigbee controller. Currently have mix of sengled bulbs, thirdreality plugs, sonoff plugs & sensors, and single aqara tvoc all working together fairly reliably.
What are max print speed and volumetric set to?
For some filaments (silk PLA) I’ve had to slow things down (120mm/s max print speed and 10mm3/s max volumetric speed) or it comes out horrible. Only used 0.4 nozzles so far though.
Their project timeline being really short combined with a really low “flexible goal” of $69,780 doesn’t give me a lot of confidence in it releasing or shipping on time if it ever does.
Slicers for FDM are open source and lots of forks. The built-in printer profiles vary a lot but can be created from scratch. You can find lots online to use as examples too. I currently use Cura, Prusaslicer, and Orcaslicer.
I’m more interested in printing plastic than tuning/upgrading the printer itself so I recommend a printer with automatic z-offset and bed leveling. Basic maintenance tasks such as cleaning, oiling, and greasing will need to be done on occasion no matter the printer. Beyond that I’ve only done simple retraction tuning.
I started with Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro. Klipper firmware upgrade improved speeds a lot. It wasn’t bad for a budget printer but lack of automatic z-offset can be frustrating so I replaced & gave it away to friend. Replaced it with Creality K1 which was a lot easier to get started with thanks to automatic z-offset calibration. Output quality is good but to get better would require upgrades + tuning. Been saving up to replace with Bambu Lab P1S combo so I can also do multi-color printing.
Hot Wheels has Marvel series of cars too and took picture of this “well known” one recently.
Looking at Intel specs for that model of CPU has ‘Intel Turbo Boost Technology’ as ‘No’ so it may not be possible to get rid of the warning but fine to ignore. https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/122590/intel-core-i3-7020u-processor-3m-cache-2-30-ghz.html#tab-blade-1-0-7
Here’s a similar issue on their github, https://github.com/AdnanHodzic/auto-cpufreq/issues/446 Sounds like it should still be able to slow down the CPU but it won’t be able to change turbo boost due to processor not supporting that feature.