Edit: Thanks to everyone for the help! Just an update.

Thanks to @nate3d and @IMALlama comments below I calibrated the e-steps that were very under and it improved a lot.

I left the filament on the dryer for 8 hours and tested again with a 20mm /s speed and 220 C print temp and it was better (picture below)

Just to answer you all saying it’s a clog or a hot end problem, it’s not, the whole hot end, includong nozzle, heat block and everything else, even the PTFE tube are all brand new and I checked before.

This is still the best I could achieve and It took 3 hours to print this benchy lol

‐-------- Hi everyone, I’m once again asking for your help lol Since I’ve tried to print with wood I totally wrecked my printer so I changed the hot end and am trying to set it all up again. Since my printer already came built and working I don’t have much experience with things like this so if you could help me I would be very thankful

What do I need to twerk to make it print better again?

I’m using Cura slicer and trying to print a benchy with the settings below:

Nozzle: 0.4

Layer: 0.2

Printing temp: 220 (it wont print with lower temp)

Speed: 60

Retraction distance: 7

Retraction speed: 70

Edit: PLA

3 points

Try calibrating your E steps if you haven’t already. Hope this helps! https://3dprinterly.com/how-to-calibrate-your-extruder-e-steps-flow-rate/

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2 points

Hey thanks!! This tip was gold and it helped A LOT

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3 points

That looks like a clog.

Try heating up the end, then removing the filament, then cut the filament flush and push it into the end, lower the temp a bit, and yank it out. Do that a few times to try and clear the clog. You can also heat the end, remove the nozzle, and clean it.

While it’s off, try pushing through some fresh filament by hand.

You were printing with wood, so it probably has wood particles stuck in it.

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3 points

Changed the hot end? Like just the brass nozzle tip? Or the what?

Either way if pla isn’t printing below 220 I’d start with a pid autotune. This will let you see if the hot end is actually doing what it should.

This site:

https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html

Has all the steps for tuning a printer, pid and e steps are listed. It’s worked well for me on my old Ender3 Bowden drives and many of my newer direct drive ones.

What printer do you have?

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1 point

oh thanks!!! I’m looking at the e steps and will look at pid after!

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4 points

I’m definitely not a printing expert but it looks like you’re under extruding, is the extruder the same size as the old one or is there some other change like that? I say this because the bottom layers look better than the higher ones, from memory cura over extrudes for the first few layers to help with bed adhesion.

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1 point

it is the same but I could try to change the flow

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17 points

I see you just printed a bonchee.

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