If it was actually 200 watts it would probably outpower the heat transfer capacity of the fridge.
If it’s really a 200 watt bulb, which I doubt, it won’t actually pull 200 watts, that’s just what it would pull if it was available but I doubt the fridge will pass that through. It would be a pretty stupid design otherwise.
I don’t know how it is in other countries, but here in the UK we still have light sockets rated for the older incandescent bulbs that needed around 60W. But LEDs are much more efficient. Sometimes you see LED bulbs with absurd things like ‘5W = 60W’ written on them, meaning that it actually uses 5W, but it’s as bright as an old 60W bulb. You basically don’t need to worry about the safety limit of the socket, since the LEDs are way under it. Of course since the socket is rated for 60W you could plug in a 60W LED, which would be as bright as an 720W incandescent bulb.
Which I suspect is what this person did to their poor fridge.
Even then, where the hell did they get a 60W LED? LEDs with those kinds of power ratings are pretty hard to find, and they’re going to be fairly expensive as well.
60W LED bulbs don’t exist because the form factor does not allow them to dissipate heat fast enough to keep LED chips that produce >50 W in heat below 150 °C. Fixtures of 20-100+ watts are available as COB modules that get mounted into work light reflectors where the entire back side is the heatsink. Their driver is very simple, so they are cheap but flicker at double the mains frequency. You can mount one in a fridge with adhesive heatsink compound and unsafe wiring modifications, assuming it fits under the cover if the socket is removed. An alternative is a long low-voltage LED strip wound all around the fridge’s interior several times.
This a a 100w LED light, not a 100w equivalent. It’s equivalent to a 1000w bulb. I bought a few to replace some old halogen shop lights.
